A Week in Andaman – A Complete Backpacking Guide

Imagine this:

• The most remote part of India
• Over 500 islands strong
• The oldest tribes in the world
• A few uninhabited islands
• A prison used during the freedom struggle in India
• Where history speaks in almost every street

This is the Andaman and Nicobar Islands group. A very loved hotspot of India, away from the mainland, the Andamans’ tourist places have attracted tourists and travellers alike from all over the world.

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are not only known for their beauty and pretty views but also known for the history, culture and tales of the past. I have backpacked extensively in the Andamans and have compiled a complete itinerary for you which can be covered in a week.

Below, you will find all the details that you need to plan for a successful trip to Andaman – Port Blair, Havelock and Neil Islands.

About the Andaman Islands

Andaman and Nicobar Islands are so silently tucked away from the eyes of the world, that it is difficult to spot them on a map easily. It is home to some of the last remaining tribes of our planet Earth, which makes this place a lot more intriguing.

Even though there are 836 islands in total here, however, every island is not accessible to the general public. Only a few of them are inhabited. If you take a close look at the map, you will find Andaman closer to Thailand than to India. Yet these islands are a part of India. Due to such a unique geographical location, the islands have suffered a lot in terms of wars and international conspiracies.

Over here, you will find intensive check posts and the presence of the Indian army. The islands are heavily guarded but despite all of these, the islands are a perfect place to relax and spend your holidays. The oceans are crystal clear, the colour of the water is deep blue and the place has a magic of its own.

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Best Time to Go to Andaman

Winters are the best time to visit the Andaman and Nicobar Islands for the weather in Andaman during these months (October to February) is cool and pleasant and ideal for water activities like snorkelling, scuba diving and sea walking. However, if you are travelling during summer, the water will be quite clear for underwater photography, although the weather may feel a little uncomfortable. Usually, the footfall of tourists increases multiplefold during the months of November to May.

It is best to avoid the monsoon (July to September) as most of the places may be closed, including water activities and high tidal waves.

• Summer – March to June
• Monsoon – July to September
• Winter – October to February

Entering and Exiting the Andaman Islands – via Port Blair

Andaman Island is separated from the mainland of India. There are no roads or rail connections to the island. You can either take a ship or a flight to cross the enormous Bay of Bengal.

By Air

There are no direct flights to Andaman (Port Blair or Sri Vijaya Puram) from Delhi. However, you can get direct flights from Kolkata, Bangalore, Mumbai or Chennai.

By Ship

You can also avail ships from Chennai, Kolkata and Vishakhapatnam. The ship from Kolkata and Chennai sails approximately three to four times a month while once a month from Vishakhapatnam. It takes 3-4 days to reach Port Blair/Sri Vijaya Puram. You can avail of the tickets right from the shipping services in these cities, check out the government website or avail of any private services. Make sure to check the timing and frequency of the ships well in advance. Note that these ships are not cruises but government-operated ships.

How to Travel Island-to-Island

Port Blair/Sri Vijaya Puram to Havelock/Swaraj Dweep

Distance from Port Blair to Havelock

The distance between Havelock and Port Blair is 73 km. There are many privately owned cruises as well as government ferries which commute between these ports. You can book the tickets online or in the port once you reach.

However, due to the crowd, ticket availability can be an issue. I would recommend you book the tickets well in advance in this case.

A government-run ferry will take around 3 hours while a privately-run cruise will take about 2 hours.

The ferry and cruise from Port Blair to Havelock

We opted for Makruzz, which I found to be quite nice and comfortable. Some of the other ferries/cruises operating between the two islands are: Sea Link Cruise, Green Ocean, Express Bhagya, and  ITT Majestic.

Timings

The ferry starts to operate at 6 AM and has frequent services. You can check the ferry schedule here: Andaman Ferry Ticket Booking Online – Instant Ticket & PNR

Havelock/Swaraj Dweep to Neil/Shaheed Dweep

Distance from Havelock to Neil

Neil Island is located 37 km from Havelock Island and takes about an hour to reach. You can book the tickets online or once you reach the port. When we travelled from Havelock to Neil, the ferry was mostly empty.

The ferry and cruise from Havelock to Neil

We went for Makruzz again. Some of the other ferries/cruises operating between the two islands are – Sea Link Cruise, Green Ocean, Express Bhagya, and ITT Majestic.

Timings

The ferry operates between 11 AM to 3:15 PM.

Neil/Shaheed Dweep to Port Blair/Sri Vijaya Puram

Distance from Neil to Port Blair

Neil Island is located 18 km from Port Blair by sea and takes about one to one and a half hours to reach. You can book the tickets online or in the port.

The ferry and cruise from Neil to Port Blair

We booked Makruzz, as usual. Some of the other ferries/cruises operating between the two islands are – Sea Link Cruise, Green Ocean, Express Bhagya, and  ITT Majestic.

Timings

The ferry operates post-10 AM.

How to commute within the island?

The best way to travel within the islands is by renting a scooter. Since Andaman tourist spots are plenty, you will find it very easy to rent a vehicle, which is readily available. In fact, as soon as you get down at the jetty, you will find yourself swamped by locals offering you such services. If not, then ask your hotel staff and they will guide you through.

Usually, the cost of renting a scooter per day is INR 400 – 500, excluding petrol.

Places to Visit in Andaman Island in One Week (Itinerary)

I travelled across for a week, which felt heavenly. Find out below the itinerary I followed and the places of interest in Andaman along with a route map. There are many sightseeing places in Andaman and Nicobar Islands and you can add and delete these places as per your preference and time. 🙂

Places to visit in Port Blair in two days

1. Cellular Jail: The Prison-Turned-Museum

   This jail is also known as Kalapani and shows the gruesome era of colonial times. The place is rich in history and one of the most popular places in Port Blair. You can also enjoy a light and sound show here which starts at 18:00 and is organized frequently. It is one of the best Andaman sightseeing places.

Timings: 09:00 – 12:30 and 13:30 – 16:45 (Closed on Mondays and National Holidays.)

Entry Fee: INR 30 (adults) | INR 200 (permits video recording)

Fare details: eTourist – Entry Fees

2. Corbyn’s Cove

   This is the perfect place to watch a sunset and is very close to the place I stayed at – TSG Hotels and Resorts. The beach is mostly crowded though due to the easy access it has from the main market, being a very popular Andaman tourist attraction.

3. Ross Island

   Ross Island, also known as Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island served as the headquarters for the British, during the erstwhile colonial rule. Now, you can only see the ruins that are covered with wild vines, roots, and trunks on the walls of these old buildings. Ross Island is one of the places of interest in Andaman you must not miss.

You have to take a ferry to reach here. You can easily book one ferry at the waterfront. The waterfront is very close to Corbyn’s Cove Beach.

4. Chidiya Tapu

   Chidiya Tapu in the Andamans is another perfect beach to watch the sunset. Although it is a little far from the main market and the roads are rough, it is worth it. You will find a limited crowd here as compared to Corbyn’s Cove. You can also visit the biosphere park where you will find several types of animals and birds. This is a perfect place for a forest walk.

Places to visit in Havelock/Swaraj Dweep in two days

1. Radhanagar Beach

   This beach made my heart swell with happiness, for it is, hands down, one of the most beautiful beaches in Andaman. If the sightseeing places in Andaman and Nicobar Islands are on your list, this should be at the top. The waters are crystal clear and deep blue while the sunset looks enthralling. If you want a little secluded time, go either to the beach’s left or right side. I recommend visiting this beach at night to increase your chances of spotting the Milky Way galaxy.

2. Kala Pathar Beach

   Epic sunrises are what Kala Pathar Beach offers. It is a beach where you can enjoy a picnic and perfect relaxation time. Although, do witness the sunrise here. It is absolutely worth getting up at 4 AM for this.

Note: Beware of the crocodiles present in the ocean here.

3. Elephant Beach

There are two ways to reach this beach – either through a forest trek or by taking a ferry. We took a ferry because we were told that the forest was swamped with mud. So, make sure to do your homework before trekking to this beach. The water is insanely blue here! You can enjoy a lot of water activities such as kayaking, jet skiing, and parasailing. However, when we visited, there were a few restrictions in place such as the prohibition to swim or snorkel.

However, this remains one of the must-visit places to see in Andaman.

Places to visit in Neil/Shaheed Dweep in two days

1. Sitapur Beach

   This beach is right in front of the TSG Hotels and Resorts – the place where we stayed. Wake up at 4:30 AM and walk down to this beach. The weather in Andaman makes it quite surreal to watch the sunrise here and hence, this beach is also known as the sunrise beach.

2. Natural Bridge

   This bridge is close to Laxmanpur Beach and is formed naturally due to coral reef formation and erosion over the years. It is now adorned with creepers and flowers. This bridge is also called the Howrah Bridge and you will cross a tiny lane of food stalls and souvenir shops while reaching the place. If you are looking for Andaman and Nicobar tourist spots to get your family or friends things from, it is the perfect place to shop for souvenirs.

3. Bharatpur Beach

   This is the bluest beach I have seen on the islands. You can even opt for Discover Scuba or get PADI certified. As I was a first-time scuba diver, they trained us for an hour before taking us to the actual diving spot.

4. Laxmanpur Beach 1

   A perfect beach to watch the setting sun. This place has many food stalls as well where you can enjoy a few drinks and snacks while enjoying the sunset. If you want some alone time, then walk to the right side of the beach.

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Accommodation in the Andaman Islands

There are many hotels in Andaman and Nicobar Islands, to choose from. The following are the ones I stayed but feel free to do your own research and choose something according to your own budget and preference.

Port Blair

We chose the TSG Emerald which was very close to the market and Corbyn’s Cave, making it a perfect place to stay in. The rooms were exceptionally cosy, the food was good and the staff there was incredible.

Havelock

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From Port Blair, we moved to Havelock and stayed in TSG Blue, which belonged to the same chain of hotels. The best part about TSG Hotels and Resorts was its location. It was just a 2-minute walk from Radhanagar beach. Also, they had a swimming pool, a bar, and a restaurant which made our stay very memorable and lively.

Neil

At Neil Island, we stayed in the TSG Aura which was right in front of Sunrise Beach or Sitapur Beach. The place is cosy and peaceful. The entire resort feels like a vintage collection. The rooms are incredibly beautiful, and they provide a dressing space as well.

A Typical Budget for a Week in the Andamans

Flights Till Port Blair

If you book well in advance, a round trip to Delhi will cost you about INR 12,000, but it depends on the season you are planning to go for.

Ferry for Island Transfers

A ferry ride on one side is ₹1,300 on average. All the ferry rides, that is, from Port Blair to Havelock, Havelock to Neil and Neil to Port Blair cost me around INR 3,000 to INR 4,000.

Accommodation

I stayed in TSG Hotels and Resorts. If you want to stay here, it would cost you INR 7,000 to INR 8,000 per night for two people on average. However, if you are travelling on a budget, you can opt to stay at budget rooms or homestays that would be INR 1,000 for two people.

Food

Port Blair, Neil and Havelock have many food stalls where you can enjoy a good meal. I am a vegetarian and for me, the cost was INR 500 per meal on average.

Scuba Diving

Scuba diving in Neil with Reefers Scuba cost me INR 4,000. I found their service exceptionally well. The cost was inclusive of everything, ie, gears, training, boat ride and 20-30 minutes of diving.

Scooter Rental

The cost of renting a scooter is INR 400 – INR 500 per day, excluding petrol. This is the best and the most comfortable way to travel in the Andamans.

Things to Pack for Your Trip

Hiking Shoes

If you plan to go to Elephant Beach via the forest, please carry your hiking shoes. The forest area can be covered with slippers as well but for a more comfortable and safer experience, hiking shoes are recommended.

Rain cover/Ponchos

During the monsoon season, especially, ensure that you are carrying your ponchos along. It rains cats and dogs from June until the end of September.

Backpack Covers

Get essential covers for your cameras, bags, etc. A phone cover would also be a good option. Since you will be around the ocean, the equipment may get damaged.

Cotton Shirts and Shorts

Beach areas can get very hot and sweaty. it is a good option to carry good cotton shorts and shorts that are comfortable.

Swimming Costume

How can you go to the beach without a swimming costume? Swim, take a dive, snorkel and soak in the sun.

Sunscreen, Sunglasses and Cap

Protect your eyes and face with these. The sun in the Andamans is mostly blasting and getting a tan is very easy. It is better to stay covered.

Chappals

Carry a comfortable pair of slippers for the beach.

Network Connectivity

Network connectivity on the islands is quite poor. BSNL has the best connectivity in the Andamans followed by Airtel. You do get Vodafone’s reception at a few places but generally, none of them are good enough.

4G is available in major towns like Port Blair, Havelock, and Neil Island but may be slower compared to mainland India.

Wi-Fi is available at most hotels, resorts, and cafes in Port Blair and Havelock, but speeds may be slow.

My recommendation is to download maps, tickets and important documents before you reach the island.

Language Spoken

The most widely spoken language on the islands is Bengali followed by Hindi, Tamil, Telugu and Malayalam. People are also well-versed in English and hence, language is not an issue.

This was my comprehensive itinerary of places to see in Andaman. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay there and took part in a lot of activities. If you follow or have discovered something else, apart from this, let me know in the comments below!

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