India

They say that the heart stays happy in the hills. I’ll be honest, Manali was never on my travel radar. The idea of crowded streets, touristy cafés, and cookie-cutter itineraries just didn’t appeal to me. As a traveller who seeks out offbeat, soul-soothing experiences, the mainstream vibe of Manali felt too overwhelming. But Old Manali? That’s a completely different story. Tucked away just a few kilometres uphill from the main town, Old Manali feels like a world of its own. It’s quieter, greener, and wrapped in an air of peaceful seclusion that’s hard to find in popular hill destinations. With quaint cafés nestled among apple orchards, the gentle sound of the Manalsu river flowing by, and locals who greet you with warm smiles, it’s the kind of place that grows on you the moment you arrive. If you enjoy walking through forest trails, sipping coffee while journaling in wooden cottages, or connecting with fellow travellers over bonfires, Old Manali offers all that and more. And for someone who thought they’d never fall for Manali, I left Old Manali with a piece of my heart still tucked away in those hills. Old Manali will surprise you in wonderful ways. From serene waterfalls to sacred temples and snow-draped valleys (if you’re lucky to visit during winter), the area has something for every kind of traveller. Let me break down my itinerary for you, along with everything you can do in Old Manali: Vashisht Temple is a sacred spot, named after Rishi Vashisht, one of the revered sages in Hindu mythology. Legend has it that when his children were killed by Rishi Vishwamitra, he tried to end his life by jumping into the river. The river, however, is said to have refused to take his life, gently carrying him to safety instead. It was here that he chose to start anew, and the village of Vashisht was born.  The temple is believed to be more than 4,000 years old and has a hot spring, which is the main attraction here. The hot spring is believed to have medicinal properties. There are separate bathing areas for men and women, and a dip here is said to be very therapeutic.  Timings:  Vashist Temple: 7 AM to 9 PM  Bath: 7 AM to 1 PM, and 2 PM to 9 PM (daily) Jogni Falls is one of the most beautiful sites to see in Old Manali, and feels straight out of a dream. Just half an hour of a trek away from Vashisht village, the cascading falls reward you with a magnificent view after a trek through pine trees and hamlets.  I would also suggest you go underneath the waterfalls, instead of just admiring them from afar.  Locals consider Jogni Falls a sacred place, and it’s believed that spiritual beings dwell in the area. So, out of respect, it’s best to keep voices low and soak in the quiet, sacred energy around you. Solang Valley Solang Valley is 14 KMs from Manali, on the way to Rohtang Pass. You can enjoy several activities like cable car rides, paragliding, skating and zorbing here. Offering lush green meadows in summer, it is a popular tourist spot during the winters, especially as Rohtang Pass shuts down at that time. The entire valley is surrounded by snow, and the landscape becomes extremely mesmerising. Sethan is the new hotspot of Himachal, also known as the ‘igloo village’ of India. Just 14 kms away from Manali, it offers a much less crowded alternative to the touristy Manali. A charming Buddhist village with sun-kissed peaks and tall pine trees, Sethan offers Instagram-worthy offbeat spots for a perfect weekend getaway, if you are looking to spend some time away from the chaos of bustling cities.  The best time to visit Sethan depends on your personal choice, but I would suggest summer, from the months of March to May. In winter, however, you can go skiing or snowboarding or even stay at an Igloo. Also, Sethan is the only place in India where one can find Igloos.  Naggar Castle lies at an altitude of 2,047 meters and served as the official seat of kings for centuries, with stunning Himalayan views. According to a legend, Raja Sidh Singh built the castle 500 years ago, and a human chain of workers was formed across the Beas River to pass stones uphill for the construction manually.  Despite a massive earthquake in 1905, which destroyed most of the habitats in the area, the castle stood strong, exemplifying its brilliant craftsmanship.  In 1978, the castle was converted into a rest house and subsequently a heritage hotel run by HPTDC. The best way to experience Old Manali is along the charming shores of the Manalsu River at the cosy cafes and guesthouses. A small wooden bridge connects the old village to the newer part and forms an ideal place for your gram-worthy pictures.  You’ll often find musicians strumming a guitar or travellers lost in a book nearby. If you have ever wanted to soar in the sky like a free bird, this is the perfect opportunity for you. Solang Valley, just 14 kms away from Manali, is the place where you can try paragliding. Solang offers two paragliding spots to choose from.  Although, do remember that during monsoons (July to early September) paragliding remains closed. The cloud and fog are not safe for paragliding; hence, plan your trip accordingly. In Old Manali, you would find temples on every street. These ancient temples have their own rituals,  each with a unique backstory and aura. One of the prominent temples is the Hadimba Temple, a 16th-century temple surrounded by deodar trees and with a dark wood structure. You can also explore other temples such as the Krishna Temple at Thava, Gauri Shankar Temple, Jamula Temple, etc. These temples are not exactly religious sites but are a living embodiment of the history and culture of the Himalayas. Old Manali’s market is the perfect place to wander through the cobblestoned pathways of the quaint village. You can explore the shopping area in the evening with colourful

Kinnaur is one of my favourite places in Himachal Pradesh. It’s one of those offbeat Himalayan escapes that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into a dream, far from the crowds, close to nature, and drenched in serenity. Known for its surreal landscapes, old monasteries, and a unique blend of Hindu and Buddhist cultures, this place has vibes you can’t quite put into words. It’s raw, real, and ridiculously beautiful. Even if you travel to Spiti, you’d have to cross Kinnaur, giving you a chance to have the best of both worlds.  In this blog, you will find a comprehensive Kinnaur itinerary that you can follow from Delhi. I have covered the cost, accommodation, and bus timings from Delhi to Kinnaur. You will also find bonus information towards the end. Also Read My Delhi to Chitkul Guide P.S. Nako is also a part of Kinnaur district. I have covered it in my Spiti guide as it comes midway. Kinnaur is located in the northeastern part of Himachal Pradesh and borders Tibet in the east. To reach Kinnaur, you would have to travel about 260 kms from Shimla. Being an offbeat place, Kinnaur is adorned with the mighty Sutlej meandering through its valleys and surreal landscapes. It is also known to be the home of the towering Kinner Kailash peak or the winter abode of Lord Shiva. While you are in Kinnaur, these are the places you can visit, as well:  Kalpa – 2,960 metres Sangla – 2,696 metres Chitkul – 3,450 metres Kinnaur looks out of a painting and is picturesque throughout the year. If I had my way, I would visit this hill station every month. Having said that, it depends on what you would like to see.  If you want to see flowers and walk through the colourful apple orchards, April is the best time to go, but if experiencing snowfall is on your bucket list, February is the best time. Ideally, April to October is the best time to visit Kinnaur.  However, during the peak season, do check if the roads are open because accessibility can become an issue at this time.  If you are planning to go to Spiti, read our guide here – Spiti Travel Guide Delhi – Chandigarh – Reckong Peo I took an overnight HRTC bus from Delhi to Chandigarh first and then hopped onto a deluxe bus from Chandigarh to Reckong Peo. There are multiple HRTC buses from Chandigarh that leave in the morning and evening – around 4:40 AM, 5:50 PM, 6 PM, and 7 PM. The evening buses are more relaxed and better if you want to enjoy the scenic ride without the sun glaring at you. Alternatively, you can also take an ordinary bus directly from Delhi (ISBT Kashmiri Gate) at around 8 PM, which takes approximately 18–19 hours to reach Reckong Peo. The bus fare is around INR 1033/- as of now, and yes, the long journey does test your patience, but the views after Shimla are totally worth it! Note: Ladies get a 50% discount on HRTC bus tickets! I would suggest you find a hotel close to the bus stand as you would have to leave for Sangla/Chitkul the very next day. There are many budget hotels just outside the bus stand, with prices ranging between INR 500 – INR 1500. By Bus: HRTC operates regular bus services between Reckong Peo and Sangla. The typical departure times are 8:30 AM​, 12:30 PM​ and 4:30 PM​. The journey takes approximately 2 hours, traversing scenic mountain routes.  By Taxi: For a more flexible and comfortable journey, you can hire a taxi near the Reckong Peo bus stand. The cost typically ranges from ₹2,500 to ₹3,000, but prices can vary based on the season and negotiation.  By Shared Taxi: Shared taxis or jeeps are a budget-friendly option, especially if you are travelling solo. They operate from Reckong Peo to Sangla, on the basis of per-seat costs, which are significantly lower than hiring a private taxi.  Sangla is absolutely beautiful. You can enjoy the village walk over here, visit the Sangla monastery and visit the nearby Kamru Village. There is 1000 years 1000-year-old Kamru Fort, which is also one of the oldest in Himachal Pradesh. Kamru Fort – Situated ~2-3 KMs from Sangla, this Fort and the view from here are marvellous. You would have to climb several steps to reach here. Entry inside this fort is quite unique. An inspector (guard) will give you a Kinnauri cap and then tie a cloth around your waist. The fort has a beautiful wooden balcony along with an idol of Kamakhya Devi, who is believed to be the presiding deity here. Photography inside the temple area is usually not allowed, so make sure to ask beforehand. The entire setting, with pine forests in the backdrop and a mix of history and mythology, makes this place totally worth the climb. Note that women who are on their menstrual cycle are not allowed to enter the fort. Chitkul is just around 20 km from Sangla and is the last inhabited village near the Indo-Tibet border. You can either take a local/shared taxi or hitch a ride (yes, that’s still a thing in the mountains!). Shared cabs usually leave in the morning from Sangla and cost about ₹100–₹150 per person.  Alternatively, board the bus that leaves from Reckong Peo for Chitkul, which will take 45 minutes to an hour.  I left for Chitkul early in the morning and then took the last bus at 3 PM that leaves for Reckong Peo from Chitkul. Chitkul is the best place to slow travel. Unwind from the hustle of life and go for a village walk or café hopping. The best thing to do in Chitkul is actually to do nothing.  But if you want to spend more time in Chitkul, read my Delhi to Chitkul Guide. Kalpa is just half an hour away from Reckong Peo. You can easily get a bus that operates every 15 minutes from the main bus stand. Kalpa is really, really gorgeous! It comprises monasteries,

Travelling to Chitkul is like fuel to the soul, you almost need it every once in a while. No matter how many times I visit Chitkul, I feel as if it is still my first. The mountains keep calling me there. Being the last village in the country, the air here is pure, the mountains are vast, the connectivity is non-existent, and it feels as if you are transported to another world altogether.  Since I have travelled to Chitkul in both summers and winters, I believe that I have a fair idea of how you can plan your visit to Chitkul in the most efficient way. Below, you will fine details regarding stay, how to plan the trip efficiently, typical cost, as well as ATM and connectivity issues. P.S. Want to learn blogging, Instagram, and YouTube from me? Hire me as your mentor. Check out my Patreon for more details. Chitkul is located in the Kinnaur Valley, in Himachal Pradesh, very close to the Tibet border. From here, travellers usually move to the Spiti Valley. Chitkul’s elevation is 3,450 metres, and it is 580 km from Delhi. It is considered as the last village in India, in the northern side being 90 km away from the Indo-Tibet border.  The best time to visit Chitkul depends on what you want to experience, depending on whether you prefer snow-covered landscapes or lush green valleys with a free-flowing Baspa River. This is one of the best times to visit Chitkul, as the weather is cold yet comfortable. Daytime temperatures range between 5°C to 15°C, while nights can be chilly. The Baspa River flows freely, displaying its stunning blue colour. The valley is vibrant, making it a perfect time for outdoor activities, photography, and soaking in the sun. While the landscape turns lush and green, the monsoon season brings occasional landslides, making travel slightly unpredictable. Temperatures remain cool, and the valley looks stunning under the misty clouds. If you enjoy solitude and don’t mind the rain, this can be a great time to visit. However, do check road conditions before planning a trip. The transition from monsoon to winter makes this a beautiful yet underrated time to visit. The weather remains cold, with temperatures dropping to 0°C at night, but the skies are usually clear, offering breathtaking views of the mountains. The golden hues of autumn add to the valley’s charm, making it a great time for photography and exploring without crowds. If you are planning to move to Spiti from Kinnaur, here is the guide – Spiti Travel Guide Winter in Chitkul is extreme, with temperatures plummeting to -20°C or lower. The entire valley is blanketed in snow, and the Baspa River often freezes, creating a surreal white landscape. Most hotels and homestays shut down, and water sources freeze, requiring travellers to rely on bucketed hot water. Despite these challenges, adventure seekers visit during this time to witness Chitkul’s fairy-tale winter scenery. If you plan to visit in winter, ensure you carry heavy winter gear and check for available accommodations in advance. There are several ways you can reach Chitkul. If you are a budget traveller or want to experience the local way of travelling to Chitkul, I would definitely recommend travelling by HRCTC buses whenever you get a chance.  To know the routes from Delhi to Reckong Peo, read our guide here – Kinnaur guide While Shimla has a small airport, flights are limited and often expensive. A more practical option is to fly to Delhi or, better, Chandigarh Airport, which offers more frequent flights and better connectivity. From Chandigarh, you can hire a taxi or hop onto a bus to Chitkul. The nearest major railway stations to Chitkul are Chandigarh and Kalka. From either station, you can continue your journey by bus or taxi to Shimla and then onward to Chitkul. However, Shimla too has a railway station, but the trains are quite infrequent and the schedules are not always reliable.  Himachal Road Transport Corporation (HRTC) operates buses from Delhi and Chandigarh to Reckong Peo, which is the administrative centre of Kinnaur district. From Reckong Peo, you can board a local bus or taxi to Chitkul.  Alternatively, buses from Shimla to Sangla are available, and from Sangla, Chitkul is a short distance away. Take an overnight HRTC bus to Chandigarh from ISBT Kashmiri Gate, Delhi. From Chandigarh, HRTC buses depart for Reckong Peo typically in the evening. Get down at Karcham and take another bus to Chitkul from Karcham. Too complicated, right? An alternate plan can be found in my Kinnaur guide There are many overnight buses from the ISBT Kashmiri Gate of Delhi to Shimla. Reach Shimla by early morning, from where you will get buses to Chitkul directly.  There are several buses that leave from Reckong Peo to Chitkul throughout the day. However, make sure to reach the station as early as possible not to miss your bus.  If you do, hop on a bus to Karcham and then onwards, board a bus or hitchhike to Chitkul. If you are staying at Sangla, it is quite convenient to take a day trip to Chitkul. Besides, the transportation and accommodation at Sangla are relatively better than Chitkul.  Traveling to Kinnaur solo? These tips will help you – Solo travel Tips for India The roads leading to Chitkul, especially beyond Shimla, are known for their challenging terrain, with stretches carved out of rock and featuring sharp, blind turns. While HRTC drivers are experienced in navigating these routes, be prepared for a rugged journey. ​ Before embarking on your trip, I would advise you to check the latest road conditions and bus schedules, as they can change due to weather and other unforeseen factors. Here is a 3 day itinerary for Chitkul for a short weekend trip. Of course, you can tweak it as per your preference and the duration of your stay.  Explore Batseri, a small village in Sangla Valley. Here, you can visit the Badrinarayan temple (carved out of